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Ingredient Glossary

How to understand ingredients in haircare, skincare, and makeup. What ingredients are helpful and what ingredients are buzzwords or hype?

Black Cumin Seed Oil Ingredient Overview on Black Seed Oil Benefits

April 6, 2021 · Leave a Comment

Black Seed Oil, also known as Black Cumin Seed Oil, is an excellent hair conditioning and hair growth remedy. It also has skincare benefits.

Rich in fatty amino acids, Black Seed Oil is moisturizing to the skin and hair. It makes an excellent scalp treatment. It is an anti-inflammatory that soothes chronic skin conditions such as eczema and psoriasis. The fatty amino acids make the skin glow and give hair a natural shine.

Black Cumin Seed Oil comes from the seeds of this flower

Black Seed Oil for Scalp Treatment

For scalp care, Black Seed Oil contains Thymoquinone. This is an excellent antibacterial, antifungal, anti-inflammatory, and antioxidant.

Black Cumin Seed Oil makes for an excellent scalp treatment. It hydrates the scalp to keep it in optimal condition for growing healthy hair. Black Cumin Seed Oil also combats scalp conditions such as dandruff, psoriasis, and other skin conditions [1] that can impair healthy hair growth.

How to Apply Black Seed Oil as a Scalp Treatment

Black Seed Oil comes from the Virgin in the green flower

Mix the oil with Coconut or Olive Oil, about a 50/50 ratio.

The oil can be warmed and applied directly to the scalp with a cotton ball or nozzle applicator tip.

Massage gently into the scalp in a circular motion.

Leave the oil mixture in the hair for at least 30 minutes, but it can be left in for even a few hours.

Wash with a mild shampoo.

Black Seed Oil for HAIR GROWTH

You may have heard about this oil as a hair growth remedy. This is the case for certain types of hair growth. Medical research studies of Telogen effluvium hair loss show topical Black Seed Oil application reduces temporary hair loss. [2]

Black Cumin Seed Oil does not directly stimulate hair growth in those within normal, healthy hair growth. But it does enable the keeping maximum hair length by combatting hair brittleness. Hair breakage can give the appearance of slower hair growth when the hair breaks as fast or faster than it grows. By stopping hair breakage, hair retains healthy length.

It works well with other ingredients to provide therapeutic effects. It is synergistic with other humectant and moisturizing ingredients to lock moisture into the hair. Hydrated hair is more elastic and resilient to breakage than brittle hair.

Black Cumin Seed Oil from the seeds of this flower is an excellent scalp treatment

How to Use Black Seed Oil for Hair Conditioning

Mix Black Seed oil with Coconut or Olive Oil, about a 50/50 ratio.

This Oil mix can be warmed and applied to the lengths of the hair with or without a scalp treatment. Smooth the oil onto the hair with the palms of the hands, do not rub. Squeeze in extra onto the hair ends and damaged sections.

It can also be added to your favorite hair conditioner to make a hair masque. Leave the mix in the hair for an hour before rinsing. The advantage of mixing the oil into a cream conditioner is it is far easier to rinse from the hair without excessive shampooing or leaving a residue.

If possible, allow hair to dry within a towel or on a cool air setting to retain the moisture.

Black Seed Oil Fast Facts

Black Seed Oil comes from seeds of the virgin on the green flower

Hair enhancing Black Seed Oil comes from the seeds of Nigella sativa

Black Cumin Seed Oil or Black Seed Oil:

comes from the seeds of the Nigella sativa, commonly called virgin in the green flower.
is also known as Black Cumin Seed Oil
works well with other ingredients to provide therapeutic effects.
is an antibacterial, antifungal, anti-inflammatory, and antioxidant oil
Black seeds and their oil have a long history of traditional medicine use in Indian and Arabian civilizations.

Ingredient Overviews

Find more hair-friendly ingredients in the Style Chicks Defining Beauty Glossary . The Defining Beauty Glossary contains many helpful ingredients for hair and skin care. And stay tuned for other Style Chicks Ingredient Overviews

References

Salih H.M. Aljabre, et al. Dermatological effects of Nigella sativa, Journal of Dermatology & Dermatologic Surgery, Volume 19, Issue 2, 2015, Pages 92-98, ISSN 2352-2410, https://doi.org/10.1016/j.jdds.2015.04.002.
A. Rossi, L. Priolo, A. Iorio, E. Vescarelli, M. Gerardi, D. Campo, D. Nunno, S. Ceccarelli, S. Calvieri, A. Angeloni and C. Marchese, “Evaluation of a Therapeutic Alternative for Telogen Effluvium: A Pilot Study,” Journal of Cosmetics, Dermatological Sciences and Applications, Vol. 3 No. 3A, 2013, pp. 9-16. doi: 10.4236/jcdsa.2013.33A1002.

About This Post

The Style Chicks personally researches each ingredient we feature. Our research comes from respected, peer reviewed medical and scientific journals. All research articles are cited in the References section.

Tea Tree Oil for Hair and Skin Melaleuca Oil Benefits

January 21, 2021 · 1 Comment

Tea Tree Oil has beauty and health applications that make it a powerful multi-tasker in your beauty arsenal.

The lovely Flowering Tea Tree, Melaleuca alternifolia

Tea Tree leaves are crushed to obtain the oil. Melaleuca alternifolia, or tea tree, is not a source of green tea leaves. Tea tree oil is also called melaleuca oil. We use these terms interchangeably. This natural remedy oil has many useful applications. It is a potent essential oil and almost always requires dilution.

Here are ways to use Tea Tree Oil for scalp health, hair loss, acne, moisturizing skin and to prevent razor burn.

TEA TREE OIL For HAIR

Tea Tree Oil for Hair Growth

Melaleuca oil doesn’t directly cause hair growth, but it removes hair growth barriers. It induces hair growth by unclogging hair follicles and nourishing roots. It also helps prevent hair loss and hair fall.

To use Tea Tree Oil for hair growth, first choose a carrier oil. Jojoba, safflower, grapeseed, and almond are a good choices for hair and scalp care. Add a few drops of Melaleuca oil and massage it into the scalp. It should tingle, but not burn. Straight Tea Tree Oil is too potent for direct contact with the scalp.

When first using Tea Tree Oil, hair may seem a bit dry, this is normal until the scalp finds a balance. If hair seems dry, use less Tea Tree and focus the massage treatments directly on the scalp.

Tea Tree Oil for Dandruff

Melaleuca oil is useful on dandruff when used as a toner or by adding a few drops of melaleuca Oil in shampoo. It reduces dandruff severity, itchiness and greasiness. [1]

Flowering Tea Tree

TEA TREE OIL For SKIN CARE

Tea Tree Oil for Acne

Melaleuca oil contains terpinen-4-ol, which is an amazing antibacterial and antifungal.[2,3]

It is also a moisturizing toner, cleanser and astringent. It effectively treats acne and prevents future breakouts [4]. It is not drying like other acne-treating ingredients, so it is effective on sensitive skin and adult acne. It even treats cystic acne.

Melaleuca oil for acne is gentler than other remedies.[5] It does not irritate the skin, it stops breakouts. It does not preclude using anti-aging treatments on same areas.

How to Treat Acne with Tea Tree Oil

There are two ways to use Melaleuca oil for acne.

The first way is to mix a ratio of 90% water to 10% Tea Tree Oil and dab it on the spot with a Q-tip or cotton ball, twice a day.
The second way is to combine one teaspoon of Aloe Vera Gel with two drops of Melaleuca oil and apply the mixture to acne with a q-tip. Let it dry fully, wait a few minutes, and wash with warm water followed by moisturizer.

Melaleuca oil can gently treat acne breakouts but is gentler on the skin than benzoyl peroxide. It also heals while it treats so there is less dry, flaky, red skin after acne treatment.

Melaleuca oil for Dry Skin

Treat dry skin with Almond Oil and Melaleuca oil and gently massage it into skin ten minutes before bathing. It is also an excellent natural treatment for contact dermatitis [6] and psoriasis [7].

Melaleuca oil and Shaving

Melaleuca oil added to water can lather and used for shaving. It moisturizes the skin and can soothe the skin after waxing or threading. Melaleuca oil prevents razor irritation or a “razor burn” rash. Add Melaleuca oil to your regular shave cream, oil or soap to pre-empt the razor burn.

Other Benefits

Anti-inflammatory
Wound healing
Clears Nail infection
Natural (diluted) mouthwash
Use diluted as a wash to inhibit mold on fruit!!

Tea Tree plant offers many natural remedy benefits including an effective gentle acne treatment

About Ingredient Overviews

Find more skin and hair-friendly ingredients in the Style Chicks Defining Beauty Glossary . The Defining Beauty Glossary contains many helpful ingredients for hair and skin care.

And stay tuned for other Style Chicks Ingredient Overviews

QUESTIONS?
COMMENTS?

Have any comments or questions?

The Style Chicks are here to answer them.

references

Satchell AC, Saurajen A, Bell C, Barnetson RS. Treatment of dandruff with 5% tea tree oil shampoo. J Am Acad Dermatol. 2002 Dec;47(6):852-5. doi: 10.1067/mjd.2002.122734. PMID: 12451368.
Carson CF, Hammer KA, Riley TV. Melaleuca alternifolia (Tea Tree) oil: a review of antimicrobial and other medicinal properties. Clin Microbiol Rev. 2006 Jan;19(1):50-62. doi: 10.1128/CMR.19.1.50-62.2006. PMID: 16418522; PMCID: PMC1360273.
Li WR, Li HL, Shi QS, Sun TL, Xie XB, Song B, Huang XM. The dynamics and mechanism of the antimicrobial activity of tea tree oil against bacteria and fungi. Appl Microbiol Biotechnol. 2016 Oct;100(20):8865-75. doi: 10.1007/s00253-016-7692-4. Epub 2016 Jul 7. Erratum in: Appl Microbiol Biotechnol. 2017 Mar;101(5):2201. PMID: 27388769.
Bassett IB, Pannowitz DL, Barnetson RS. A comparative study of tea-tree oil versus benzoylperoxide in the treatment of acne. Med J Aust. 1990 Oct 15;153(8):455-8. PMID: 2145499.
Ibid
Wallengren J. Tea tree oil attenuates experimental contact dermatitis. Arch Dermatol Res. 2011 Jul;303(5):333-8. doi: 10.1007/s00403-010-1083-y. Epub 2010 Sep 24. PMID: 20865268.
Pazyar N, Yaghoobi R. Tea tree oil as a novel antipsoriasis weapon. Skin Pharmacol Physiol. 2012;25(3):162-3. doi: 10.1159/000337936. Epub 2012 Apr 3. PMID: 22473218.

About This Post

The Style Chicks personally researches each ingredient we feature. Our research comes from respected, peer reviewed medical and scientific journals.

Camellia Japonica Oil Ingredient Spotlight on Authentic Tsubaki

December 21, 2020 · Leave a Comment

We are featuring one of our favorite skincare beauty secrets: Camellia Japonica Oil. Learn about this prized ancient beauty secret weapon for lush, sleek hair and dewy, youthful skin.

Camellia Japonica Oil is also known as Japanese Camellia, common camellia, or Tsubaki Camellia. Tsubaki Camellia is the authentic Japanese Camellia seen in skincare ranges of brands such as Tatcha, Shiseido, and SK-II.

Camellia Japonica Oil is originally known as a prized, ancient Japanese beauty secret. In writings and texts about traditional use, Camellia Japonica Oil is often referred to as Tsubaki. Geishas used Tsubaki Camellia to get silky, shiny hair and luminous, youthful, soft skin.

Camellia Japonica oil is cold-pressed from the seeds of this lovely bloom. Camellia Japonica Oil is effective at transdermal collagen and elastin delivery.

Camellia Japonica Oil comes from this lovely bloom.

Why We Love Camellia Japonica Oil

All camellia oil variants help skin, but Camilla Japonica oil is the real deal.

An excellent antioxidant and moisturizer, Camellia Japonica oil is rich in oleic acid, better known as Omega 9. Omega 9 helps the skin retain hydration.

Camellia japonica oil also contains polyphenols, vitamins A, D, C, and E.

This non-comedogenic oil promotes skin elasticity.[1]

This variant of Camellia oil is the most effective at transdermal collagen and elastin delivery. Choose cold-pressed whenever possible.

Camellia Japonica is a pale golden lightweight oil. It is similar to a hemi-squalene in its’ consistency. Because it feels light, it is easy to over-apply.

TIP: Only use a few drops and warm it in your hands before application. Pat, don’t rub onto skin.

It is a non-greasy and an excellent moisturizer but less is more when using authentic Japanese Camellia.

Tsubaki Camellia works wonders on dry, flat, dull hair. The fatty acids quickly absorb into the hair.

One bottle should last for quite some time. It only takes a few drops.

Locating Authentic Tsubaki

Authentic Camellia Japonica oil is elusive to procure but worth the effort. There are three kinds of camellia oil. All three benefit the skin, but authentic Tsubaki will only appear on the product ingredient label as Tsubaki or Tsubaki Camellia but more often as Camellia Japonica Oil or Japanese Camellia.

The following are skin-enhancing Camellia Oils, but not the authentic Tsubaki you want for the most skin benefits:

Camellia Oleifera Seed Oil smooths rough skin patches and repairs the skin barrier. It also smoothes hair in a conditioner or leave-in serum.
Camelia Sinensis is the leaves of green and white tea. It is an anti-inflammatory anti-oxidant with EGCG. EGCG enables the production of new cells in the epidermis [2]. Impressive, but not the collagen and elastin production powerhouse of genuine Camellia Japonica Oil.

Once you have procured authentic Tsubaki, here is how to use it on skin and hair:

How to Use Camellia Japonica Oil on the Hair

A wood comb helps distribute the oil without snagging hair

A wood comb helps distribute the Tsubaki oil without snagging hair

Tsubaki can be applied to wet or dry hair to serve as a conditioning treatment or styling agent. It is traditionally distributed through the hair with a Tsuge wooden comb. As seen in the photo, there are no sharp edges that can snag or damage the hair. The Tsubaki oil also conditions the wood, giving it a beautiful luster and depth to the grain.

Camellia Japonica Oil Leave-In Hair Treatment

For leave-in hair treatments, apply the oil to wet hair after washing. Allow hair to dry wrapped in a towel or air dry as much as possible. Comb after drying to distribute the oil.

Tsubaki Camellia for Hair Shine and Finishing

Tsubaki Camellia can be used on dry hair as a finishing treatment. It creates a lovely high sheen.

Our best tip for finishing hair with Tsubaki is to start with the least amount of oil you can dispense from the bottle.

Dispense just a few drops, even for long hair. Always warm Japanese Camellia Japonica oil between the palms. Spread on dry hair using the palm of the hands. Comb through with a Tsuge wooden comb if possible. Concentrate on the dry ends of the hair, and the comb will transfer the oils to the rest of the hair to evenly distribute.

Comb it through, and only add more Tsubaki as needed. Very little Camellia Japonica oil goes a long way. A dropper full is way too much. Practice plenty and count how many drops you dispense to hone your ideal amount for the next use.

Tsubaki creates a lovely healthy sheen to the hair while providing conditioning benefits.

How to Use Camellia Japonica on the Skin

Care of the skin was a ritual with this ancient beauty secret: none of the rubbing, scrubbing, or squeezing we tend to subject our skin to today. The skin was treated like an inherited gift that required the investment of time and effort to care for the skin, especially on face, throat, decolletage and hands.

Camellia japonica is a highly moisturizing and anti-aging skincare oil

Camellia japonica oil is a highly moisturizing and anti-aging skincare oil

Camellia oil absorbs very quickly. It permeates deep into lower layers of skin, promoting cell growth, and giving skin support and flexibility.

HOW TO APPLY CAMELLIA JAPONICA OIL TO SKIN:

Dispense a few drops of oil, rub your palms together.

PAT the oil over your face and neck, don’t rub!

Spread the oil in small circular motions in a gentle massage until it is absorbed.

It can be applied directly to a pimple, wrinkles, and crow’s feet. Camellia Japonica Oil can be used to treat eczema and dry patches.

Rice Bran Oil and Tsubaki

These oils are both wonderful for hair and skin but they work better when not mixed together. Apply Tsubaki first and allow it ample time to absorb. Follow with Rice Bran Oil if desired.

Camellia Japonica Fast Facts

Camellia Japonica Oil is extracted from the seeds of this lovely bloom. Camellia Japonica means shiny green leaf, denoting its’ foliage.

Tsubaki is:

the authentic form of oil traditionally used as a beauty secret of Geishas.
suitable for hair and skin
anti-oxidant
moisturizing
rich in skin-hydrating fatty acid Omega 9
restores bounce and elasticity to the skin
contains polyphenols, Vitamins A, D, C, and E
non-comedogenic
promotes collagen and elastin production
non-greasy
fast-absorbing

References

Jung, E. et al. Effect of Camellia japonica oil on human type I procollagen production and skin barrier function. Journal of ethnopharmacology 112.1, 127-131 (2007)
Food and Chemical Toxicology, January 2000, issue 1, pages 79-96

Ingredient Profile
Mandelic Acid

December 10, 2020 · 1 Comment

Acne is the most common skin condition in the US. Retinol is often used as an acne remedy. But peeling acids are also promising acne and acne scar treatments. Mandelic Acid is an ingredient worthy of your attention. It gets the results of a robust acid but with little to no skin irritation.

Got acne? Meet Mandelic Acid.

WHAT IS MANDELIC ACID?

Mandelic Acid is a natural acne fighter and discoloration fixer.

Mandelic acid is a natural ingredient that comes from bitter almonds

Mandelic acid is a natural ingredient extracted from bitter almonds

Mandelic acid is a very gentle AHA (Alpha Hydroxy Acid).
Mandelic acid penetrates the skin slowly, making it suitable for even sensitive skin.
While it is an “acid” it is very gentle and rarely causes skin irritation.
Mandelic acid is natural, clean, green, and skin-friendly.
Mandelic acid is useful in organic skin care product formulations.

HOW MANDELIC ACID WORKS: ACNE TO ANTI-AGING

Mandelic acid accelerates cell turnover by dissolving the tiny bonds that hold skin cells together. This microexfoliation accomplishes several skincare objectives.

ACNE

Mandelic acid is useful in acne treatment. Mandelic acid removes bacteria-trapping dead skin, which contributes to acne formation. Dead skin also dulls the complexion and makes fine lines look worse. Removing dead skin cells brightens skin.

Mandelic acid is anti-bacterial, anti-fungal, and anti-inflammatory. If you have adult acne, Mandelic acid is ideal to treat both acne and signs of skin aging. [1]

ANTI-AGING

Mandelic acid an appealing ingredient within anti-aging products. Mandelic acid is helpful for smoothing mesh-like pattern wrinkles. Mandelic acid promotes collagen production. More collagen increases skin’s elasticity and youthful appearance. Collagen counteracts sun damage by smoothing and refining the skin surface. Sun damage is the largest cause of visible signs of aging.

Mandelic acid also reduces hyperpigmentation. It lightens acne scars, sun damage, and age spots.

MANDELIC ACID VS GLYCOLIC ACID

Similarities

Both acids are highly effective at causing rapid cell turnover.
Both reveal younger, smoother, brighter skin.
Both acids dissolve the “glue” holding dead skin cells.
Both remove dead skin cells without forceful scrubbing.
Both Mandelic Acid and Glycolic Acid are ideal for skin unable to tolerate harsh exfoliants.

Differences

A difference between the acids is that Mandelic acid has a larger molecular structure than glycolic acid. Smaller molecular structures penetrate the skin faster and deeper. [2] The larger molecular structure of Mandelic Acid gets the job done, albeit a tad slower.

If the skin can tolerate glycolic, that’s great. But if your skin gets irritated by Glycolic acid, Mandelic acid is an ideal option. Mandelic is kinder to the skin. There is little to no irritation and redness with regular Mandelic Acid use. [3]

MANDELIC ACID TIPS FOR BEST USE

Skin using AHAs, including Mandelic Acid, is more sensitive to light. Always wear sunscreen
To avoid irritation, choose products with 10% or less Mandelic Acid concentrations

HYPERPIGMENTATION

Some hyperpigmentation fading ingredients work best on pink undertone skin. Mandelic Acid works on the hyperpigmentation of all skin tone types.

Mandelic Acid inhibits melanin production in existing scars, age spots, and acne marks. [4] This reduces hyperpigmentation of all types on all skin tones.

Mandelic Acid A Holy Grail Ingredient

Mandelic Acid earns our “Holy Grail Ingredient” rating. It reduces sun damage, acne, and hyperpigmentation. It gently exfoliates and improves skin texture. It works on all skin tones and textures, including mature and sensitive skin. It is natural and suitable for organic product formulations.

Mandelic Acid is a Style Chicks skincare superstar!

Mandelic Acid is a great addition to a natural ingredient, organic skin care plan

Mandelic Acid is a natural ingredient that comes from bitter Almonds

REFERENCES

Debowska, Renata & Kaszuba, Aleksandra & Michalak, Iwona & Dzwigałowska, Agata & Cieścińska, Czanita & Jakimiuk, Elżbieta & Zielińska, Joanna & Kaszuba, Andrzej. (2015). Evaluation of the efficacy and tolerability of mandelic acid-containing cosmetic formulations for acne skin care. Dermatology Review. 4. 316-321. 10.5114/dr.2015.53419.
Garg VK, Sinha S, Sarkar R. Glycolic acid peels versus salicylic-mandelic acid peels in active acne vulgaris and post-acne scarring and hyperpigmentation: A comparative study. Dermatol Surg 2009;35:59-65.
Taylor MB. Summary of mandelic acid for the improvement of skin conditions. Cosmet Dermatol 1999;12:26-8
Kessler E, Flanagan K, Chia C, Rogers C, Glaser DA. Comparison of alpha- and beta-hydroxy acid chemical peels in the treatment of mild to moderately severe facial acne vulgaris. Dermatol Surg 2008;34:45-50.

Science of Beauty: Salicylic Acid the Collagen-Building Acne Treating BHA

July 16, 2019 · 6 Comments

Salicylic Acid is effective for teenage , cystic, and adult acne. It is preferred for mature skin because it does not excessively dry skin that’s already showing signs of aging. BONUS: Salicylic builds collagen.

INGREDIENT PROFILE: Salicylic Acid

Salicylic Acid is a bHA (beta hydroxy acid). BHAs work from the bottom of a pore up. Alpha Hydroxy Acid (AHAs) work from the top layer of the skin down.

Pairing a bHA such as Salicylic Acid with an aHA like Mandelic Acid is clinically proven to be highly successful in acne treatment. (1) Salicylic Acid is also proven effective as a chemical peel agent for various skin issues. (2)

What SALICYLIC ACID does

Salicylic Acid is a natural bHA that comes from White Willow Bark.

Salicylic Acid is a natural bHA from White Willow Bark.

Salicylic Acid purges clogged pores without excess drying the skin surface. Salicylic Acid does not cause the dryness or Benzoyl Peroxide or Retinol, but overtreatment can lead to irritation.

Salicylic Acid also helps build collagen to heal acne scars and improve skincare texture. Collagen production is a nice perk of acne treatment.

Salicylic acid works better when paired with another peeling agent. A combination of salicylic and mandelic acids was shown to be especially effective on moderate acne. (3).

Favorite Products Using Salicylic Acid

Peter Thomas Roth Acne Clear Invisible Dots are tiny clear bandaid like dots embedded with Salicylic acid
Neutralyze Exfoliating Pads combine Salicylic with Mandelic and Nitric Oxide to clean pores fast.
Clinique Acne Solutions™ Clinical Clearing Gel is highly effective on adult cystic acne when used as a pre-emptive or spot treatment.
The Exposed Skincare line uses salicylic in two ways within their product range. Great for adult cystic acne.
The Ordinary Salicylic Acid 2% Solution is a gentle but effective pre-emptive acne treatment

QUESTIONS?
Comments?

Clinique Acne Solutions Clinical Clearing Gel has Salicylic Acid

Clinique Acne Solutions Clinical Clearing Gel contains Salicylic Acid

Know a salicylic acid product that should be on this list? Tell us!

Have any questions about Salicylic Acid?

The Style Chicks are here to answer them.

References

Garg VK, Sinha S, Sarkar R. Glycolic acid peels versus salicylic-mandelic acid peels in active acne vulgaris and post-acne scarring and hyperpigmentation: A comparative study. Dermatol Surg 2009;35:59-65.
Kessler E, Flanagan K, Chia C, Rogers C, Glaser DA. Comparison of alpha- and beta-hydroxy acid chemical peels in the treatment of mild to moderately severe facial acne vulgaris. Dermatol Surg 2008;34:45-50.
Bari AU, Tolerance and safety of superficial chemical peeling with salicylic acid in various facial dermatoses. Indian J Dermatol Venereol Leprol. 2005 Mar-Apr;71(2):87-90.