Ingredient Glossary Archives * Style Chicks

Ingredient Glossary

How to understand ingredients in haircare, skincare, and makeup. What ingredients are helpful and what ingredients are buzzwords or hype?

Science of Beauty: Salicylic Acid the Collagen-Building Acne Treating BHA

July 16, 2019 · 6 Comments

Salicylic Acid is effective for teenage , cystic, and adult acne. It is preferred for mature skin because it does not excessively dry skin that’s already showing signs of aging. BONUS: Salicylic builds collagen.

INGREDIENT PROFILE: Salicylic Acid

Salicylic Acid is a bHA (beta hydroxy acid). BHAs work from the bottom of a pore up. Alpha Hydroxy Acid (AHAs) work from the top layer of the skin down.

Pairing a bHA such as Salicylic Acid with an aHA like Mandelic Acid is clinically proven to be highly successful in acne treatment. (1) Salicylic Acid is also proven effective as a chemical peel agent for various skin issues. (2)

What SALICYLIC ACID does

Salicylic Acid is a natural bHA that comes from White Willow Bark.

Salicylic Acid is a natural bHA from White Willow Bark.

Salicylic Acid purges clogged pores without excess drying the skin surface. Salicylic Acid does not cause the dryness or Benzoyl Peroxide or Retinol, but overtreatment can lead to irritation.

Salicylic Acid also helps build collagen to heal acne scars and improve skincare texture. Collagen production is a nice perk of acne treatment.

Salicylic acid works better when paired with another peeling agent. A combination of salicylic and mandelic acids was shown to be especially effective on moderate acne. (3).

Favorite Products Using Salicylic Acid

Peter Thomas Roth Acne Clear Invisible Dots are tiny clear bandaid like dots embedded with Salicylic acid
Neutralyze Exfoliating Pads combine Salicylic with Mandelic and Nitric Oxide to clean pores fast.
Clinique Acne Solutions™ Clinical Clearing Gel is highly effective on adult cystic acne when used as a pre-emptive or spot treatment.
The Exposed Skincare line uses salicylic in two ways within their product range. Great for adult cystic acne.
The Ordinary Salicylic Acid 2% Solution is a gentle but effective pre-emptive acne treatment

QUESTIONS?
Comments?

Clinique Acne Solutions Clinical Clearing Gel has Salicylic Acid

Clinique Acne Solutions Clinical Clearing Gel contains Salicylic Acid

Know a salicylic acid product that should be on this list? Tell us!

Have any questions about Salicylic Acid?

The Style Chicks are here to answer them.

References

Garg VK, Sinha S, Sarkar R. Glycolic acid peels versus salicylic-mandelic acid peels in active acne vulgaris and post-acne scarring and hyperpigmentation: A comparative study. Dermatol Surg 2009;35:59-65.
Kessler E, Flanagan K, Chia C, Rogers C, Glaser DA. Comparison of alpha- and beta-hydroxy acid chemical peels in the treatment of mild to moderately severe facial acne vulgaris. Dermatol Surg 2008;34:45-50.
Bari AU, Tolerance and safety of superficial chemical peeling with salicylic acid in various facial dermatoses. Indian J Dermatol Venereol Leprol. 2005 Mar-Apr;71(2):87-90.

Science of Beauty: Why Use Mandelic Acid for Acne to Anti-Aging

July 1, 2019 · 5 Comments

Acne is the most common skin condition in the United States.
No acne treatment overview would be complete without Mandelic Acid.

Retinol is still the gold standard for acne. But peeling acids are more common in acne and acne scar treatment. And Mandelic Acid is an ingredient worthy of your attention. It gets the results of a robust acid but with little to no skin irritation.

WHAT IS MANDELIC ACID?

Mandelic acid is a natural ingredient that comes from bitter almonds

Mandelic acid is a natural ingredient that is extracted from bitter almonds

Mandelic acid is a very gentle AHA (Alpha Hydroxy Acid).

Mandelic acid penetrates the skin slowly, making it suitable for even sensitive skin. While it is an “acid” it is very gentle and rarely causes skin irritation.

Mandelic acid is natural, clean, green, and skin-friendly.

It is useful in organic skin care product formulations.

HOW MANDELIC ACID WORKS: ACNE TO ANTI-AGING

Mandelic acid accelerates cell turnover by dissolving the tiny bonds that hold skin cells together. This microexfoliation accomplishes several skincare objectives.

ACNE

Mandelic acid is useful in acne treatment. Mandelic acid removes bacteria-trapping dead skin, which contributes to acne formation. Dead skin also dulls the complexion and makes fine lines look worse. Removing dead skin cells brightens skin. It is anti-bacterial, anti-fungal, and anti-inflammatory. If you have adult acne, Mandelic acid is ideal to treat both acne and signs of skin aging. (1)

ANTI-AGING

Mandelic acid an appealing ingredient within anti-aging products. Mandelic acid is helpful for smoothing mesh-like pattern wrinkles. Mandelic acid promotes collagen production. More collagen increases skin’s elasticity and youthful appearance. Collagen counteracts sun damage by smoothing and refining the skin surface. Sun damage is the largest cause of visible signs of aging.

Mandelic acid reduces hyperpigmentation. It lightens acne scars, sun damage, and age spots.

MANDELIC ACID VS GLYCOLIC ACID

Both acids are highly effective at causing rapid cell turnover. Both reveal younger, smoother, brighter skin. Both acids dissolve the “glue” holding dead skin cells. Both remove dead skin cells without forceful scrubbing. Both Mandelic Acid and Glycolic Acid are ideal for skin unable to tolerate harsh exfoliants.

A difference between the acids is that Mandelic acid has a larger molecular structure than glycolic acid. Smaller molecular structures penetrate the skin faster and deeper. (2) If the skin can tolerate glycolic, that’s great. But if the skin gets irritated by Glycolic acid, Mandelic acid is an ideal option. The larger molecular structure of Mandelic Acid gets the job done, albeit a tad slower. Mandelic is kinder to the skin. There is little to no irritation and redness with regular Mandelic Acid use. (3)

MANDELIC ACID TIPS FOR BEST USE

Skin using AHAs, including Mandelic Acid, is more sensitive to light. Always wear sunscreen
To avoid irritation, choose products with 10% or less Mandelic Acid concentrations

HYPERPIGMENTATION

Some hyperpigmentation fading ingredients work best on pink undertone skin. Mandelic Acid works on the hyperpigmentation of all skin tone types. Mandelic Acid inhibits melanin production in existing scars, age spots, and acne marks. (4) This reduces hyperpigmentation of all types on all skin tones.

Mandelic Acid: A Holy Grail Ingredient

Mandelic Acid earns our “Holy Grail Ingredient” rating. It reduces sun damage, acne, and hyperpigmentation. It gently exfoliates and improves skin texture. It works on all skin tones and textures, including mature and sensitive skin. It is natural and suitable for organic product formulations. A Style Chicks skincare superstar!

REFERENCES

Debowska, Renata & Kaszuba, Aleksandra & Michalak, Iwona & Dzwigałowska, Agata & Cieścińska, Czanita & Jakimiuk, Elżbieta & Zielińska, Joanna & Kaszuba, Andrzej. (2015). Evaluation of the efficacy and tolerability of mandelic acid-containing cosmetic formulations for acne skin care. Dermatology Review. 4. 316-321. 10.5114/dr.2015.53419.
Garg VK, Sinha S, Sarkar R. Glycolic acid peels versus salicylic-mandelic acid peels in active acne vulgaris and post-acne scarring and hyperpigmentation: A comparative study. Dermatol Surg 2009;35:59-65.
Taylor MB. Summary of mandelic acid for the improvement of skin conditions. Cosmet Dermatol 1999;12:26-8
Kessler E, Flanagan K, Chia C, Rogers C, Glaser DA. Comparison of alpha- and beta-hydroxy acid chemical peels in the treatment of mild to moderately severe facial acne vulgaris. Dermatol Surg 2008;34:45-50.

Vitamin K for Dark Undereye Circles: Fast Facts

June 24, 2019 · 6 Comments

Five Fast Vitamin K Facts

Vitamin K is popular in under-eye creams because it can lighten infraorbital darkness, AKA under eye circles. It is most beneficial for circles with a blue or brown undertone.

Vitamin K reverses the calcium deposits in elastin fibers. These deposits harden and cause wrinkles.
Vitamin K helps with blood coagulation and circulation.
Vitamin K is also called Phytonadione on ingredient listings.
Some dark circles are caused by weak vessels that allow blood near the surface of your skin. These circles have a blue, purple or brown undertone.
Topical application of vitamin K cream prior to an in-office procedure strengthens blood vessels. Stronger blood vessels means less bruising after surgical or laser treatments.

What to look for in a Vitamin K Topical

Vitamin K is most effective as part of a team instead of a standalone K cream or gel. A study in the Journal of Cosmetic Dermatology showed topical Vitamin K works best when paired with retinol, Vitamins C, E, and the Bs. (1)

If you use prescription retinol, apply the retinol first and then the topical K product.

Choose a product with enough Vitamin K to be effective. The study used a 2% Vitamin K concentration.

REFERENCES

Mitsuishi, T. , Shimoda, T. , Mitsui, Y. , Kuriyama, Y. and Kawana, S. (2004), The effects of topical application of phytonadione, retinol and vitamins C and E on infraorbital dark circles and wrinkles of the lower eyelids. Journal of Cosmetic Dermatology, 3: 73-75. doi:10.1111/j.1473-2130.2004.00070.x

The Science of Beauty: Can Tamanu Oil Really Help Scars & Stretch Marks?

June 19, 2019 · 6 Comments

When we hear there’s an organic oil that can be used for skin concerns such as anti-aging, acne, stretch marks, scars, razor burn, bug bites, and can be used for softer, smoother hair, we’re interested. But we are also skeptical. What does the research say? Anecdotal evidence supports beautiful hair and skin on those who use Tamanu Oil. Many people swear by Tamanu Oil for clearing up acne or fading an old scar. But does science back the Tamanu Oil folklore? What is Tamanu Oil? And how do you use it? We did Tamanu Oil Research.

Tamanu Oil comes from the nuts of the Tamanu Tree.

ABOUT TAMANU OIL

The locals call it “Green Gold”. Pacific island folk medicine uses Tamanu Oil for a host of natural remedies. In Southern India, Tamanu Oil is used for many skin ailments. In Taiwan, it is used for hair. Tamanu Oil has gained attention because of its’ rare beauty benefits. The oil comes from a nut of the Tamanu Tree. The Tamanu Tree is commonly found in Polynesia. Within the region, Tamanu Oil is prized for hair, skin and a host of medical uses. Ample anecdotal evidence exists for these uses. Countless people swear by Tamanu Oil. But there have been limited research studies on Tamanu Oil efficacy. Studies to date show a promising organic oil with many versatile uses.

What do we know about Tamanu Oil?

While used for years in Polynesian regions, Tamanu Oil is only a recent discovery to many of us.

Tamanu Oil is a lovely golden green color with a slight nutty scent.

Tamanu Oil is a lovely golden green color with a slightly nutty scent.

Tamanu oil is a topical healing agent that is:

antineuralgic
anti-inflammatory
antimicrobial
antibiotic
anti-oxidant

TAMANU OIL RESEARCH STUDIES

Tamanu Oil has been long associated with many health and beauty benefits. Research studies are still developing for the documentation of several promising medical uses. There is even research into Tamanu Oil’s potential benefit for cancer and HIV.(1)

But other Tamanu Oil uses are already well documented. These areas include the healing of burns and skin diseases. (2)

Tamanu Oil is both anti-inflammatory and antiseptic. Tamanu Oil is used for skin conditions such as:

acne scars
burns
dry scalp
eczema
mosquito bites
psoriasis
stings
stretch marks
flaky, scaly or dry skin.

Older stretch marks are notoriously difficult to treat. What would make Tamanu Oil more effective than any other remedy?
Its’ rare fatty acid profile.

RESEARCH: HOW TAMANU OIL HEALS SCARS & MARKS

There has been studies of the healing properties of Tamanu Oil. Of interest is the special fatty properties of Tamanu Oil. These fatty properties help soften wounds, scars and stretch marks.

Organic Tamanu oil has a unique fatty acid profile. It has an unusual fatty acid called calophyllic acid. There are few studies on Calophyllum (calophyllic acid). But studies do exist, and there are enough to give credence to the skin healing ability of Tamanu Oil. Various studies verified the wound healing, safety, and antibacterial properties of Calophyllum (3). This supports the anecdotal reports of the skin improvement seen with the traditional use of Tamanu Oil for at least scars, burns, and stretch marks.

CONCLUSION

Tamanu Oil is an exciting and promising Oil for a host of topical and medical uses. Tamanu Oil research is still limited. But studies are still in development to further explore potential benefits. What we do know is that Tamanu Oil is effective on several skin conditions and treating damaged skin.

WARNING: Tamanu is a nut. Tamanu oil should be avoided by those with nut allergies.

REFERENCES

Warrier, Kannan. (2010). Calophyllum inophyllum. Pages 168-174.
Ibid, Page 176
Léguillier, Teddy et al. “The Wound Healing and Antibacterial Activity of Five Ethnomedical Calophyllum inophyllum Oils: An Alternative Therapeutic Strategy to Treat Infected Wounds.” PloS one vol. 10,9 e0138602. 25 Sep. 2015, doi:10.1371/journal.pone.0138602 https://www.ncbi.nlm.nih.gov/pmc/articles/PMC4583440/

How to Use Sunflower Oil for Hair and Skin

June 3, 2019 · 15 Comments

Why Use Sunflower Oil

Sunflower Oil is a carrier oil with many benefits for both hair and skin. Sunflower Seed Oil is hydrating, nourishing and an excellent “supporting” oil base. Sunflower Oil especially benefits coarse hair textures. It locks in moisture and deters hair breakage.

Sunflower Oil has many hair and skin benefits

Sunflower Oil Skin Benefits

Sunflower Oil is an effective face and body moisturizer. But it is a semi-greasy oil which makes the application and dry-down difficult. When mixed into a lotion or cream, sunflower oil can be exceptionally useful on body skin.

Sunflower Oil is non-comedogenic and can moisturize acne-prone areas. It soothes eczema, scarring, redness, and irritation.

Sunflower Oil retains moisture in the skin and is also rich in vitamin E.
Functions as a lipid buffer against drying ingredients or topical medicines (1)
Sunflower Oil softens skin irritated by drying topicals. It works well with Retinol because it hydrates and calms red, irritated skin.
Linoleic acid Gives sunflower seed oil anti-inflammatory properties.
It is a natural treatment for atopic dermatitis. (2)
The Vitamin E in Sunflower oil lightens skin discoloration.
It is gentle enough to use as an eye makeup remover. Apply oil directly to face and allow 30 seconds to dissolve makeup, massage gently if desired. Wash face as normal. To remove eye makeup, hold a sunflower seed soaked cotton ball over your closed lid for about 20 seconds. It dissolves mascara without rubbing or pulling on lashes.

Sunflower Oil Hair Benefits

Sunflower Oil is an excellent unscented oil for hair hydration and softening. It works as a base for scalp treatment essential oils such as Tea Tree, Rosemary, and Peppermint. It softens hair when combined with rosemary and lavender oils.

Vitamin E promotes scalp health.
It blends well with other oils. A blend of Sunflower Oil and Coconut Oil moisturizes and strengthens hair, and is not as greasy.
Ideal for coarse hair because it helps hair retain moisture. It is a light non-polar solvent that prevents water loss. It penetrates the hair shaft to lock and retain moisture.
It is less greasy than olive oil and won’t cause breakouts.
It contains Omega 9, an essential acid needed to stop breakage and stimulate hair growth.

Sunflower Oil benefits all hair types, especially hair needing extra moisture. This includes coarse hair, curly hair, and damaged hair.

General Beauty Benefits of Sunflower Oil

Use Sunflower oil for coarse and brittle hair to stop breakage and dryness

Sunflower oil on coarse hair prevents breakage

Sunflower Oil has a highly nutritious composition. It is one of the healthiest oils skin and hair application. The main component of sunflower oil is linoleic acid. Its other components include oleic acid and palmitic acid, lecithin, carotenoids, tocopherols, and numerous vitamins. These nourish skin and hair.

While Sunflower Oil is an effective moisturizer, it is also a carrier oil. It enables the other active moisturizing ingredients to sink deeper into the skin. Combine sunflower oil with jojoba, grapeseed oil, almond oil, or essential oils for extra benefits.

References

Lodén M, Andersson AC. Effect of topically applied lipids on surfactant-irritated skin. Br J Dermatol. 1996;134(2):215-20.

Lopez Perez G, Torres Altamirano M. Indications for sunflower oil concentrate in the treatment of atopic dermatitis. Rev Alerg Mex. 2006;53(6):217-25.