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Camellia Japonica Oil Ingredient Spotlight on Authentic Tsubaki

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We are featuring one of our favorite skincare beauty secrets: Camellia Japonica Oil. Learn about this prized ancient beauty secret weapon for lush, sleek hair and dewy, youthful skin.

Camellia Japonica Oil is also known as Japanese Camellia, common camellia, or Tsubaki Camellia. Tsubaki Camellia is the authentic Japanese Camellia seen in skincare ranges of brands such as Tatcha, Shiseido, and SK-II.

Camellia Japonica Oil is originally known as a prized, ancient Japanese beauty secret.  In writings and texts about traditional use, Camellia Japonica Oil is often referred to as Tsubaki. Geishas used Tsubaki Camellia to get silky, shiny hair and luminous, youthful, soft skin.

Camellia Japonica oil is cold-pressed from the seeds of this lovely bloom.  Camellia Japonica Oil is effective at transdermal collagen and elastin delivery.

Camellia Japonica

Camellia Japonica Oil comes from this lovely bloom.

 

Why We Love Camellia Japonica Oil

All camellia oil variants help skin, but Camilla Japonica oil is the real deal.

An excellent antioxidant and moisturizer, Camellia Japonica oil is rich in oleic acid, better known as Omega 9.  Omega 9 helps the skin retain hydration.

Camellia japonica oil also contains polyphenols, vitamins A, D, C, and E.

This non-comedogenic oil promotes skin elasticity.[1]

This variant of Camellia oil is the most effective at transdermal collagen and elastin delivery. Choose cold-pressed whenever possible.

Camellia Japonica is a pale golden lightweight oil.  It is similar to a hemi-squalene in its’ consistency. Because it feels light, it is easy to over-apply.

TIP: Only use a few drops and warm it in your hands before application. Pat, don’t rub onto skin.

It is a non-greasy and an excellent moisturizer but less is more when using authentic Japanese Camellia.

Tsubaki Camellia works wonders on dry, flat, dull hair. The fatty acids quickly absorb into the hair.

One bottle should last for quite some time. It only takes a few drops.

 

Locating Authentic Tsubaki

Authentic Camellia Japonica oil is elusive to procure but worth the effort. There are three kinds of camellia oil. All three benefit the skin, but authentic Tsubaki will only appear on the product ingredient label as Tsubaki or Tsubaki Camellia but more often as Camellia Japonica Oil or Japanese Camellia.

The following are skin-enhancing Camellia Oils, but not the authentic Tsubaki you want for the most skin benefits:

  • Camellia Oleifera Seed Oil smooths rough skin patches and repairs the skin barrier. It also smoothes hair in a conditioner or leave-in serum.
  • Camelia Sinensis is the leaves of green and white tea. It is an anti-inflammatory anti-oxidant with EGCG. EGCG enables the production of new cells in the epidermis [2].  Impressive, but not the collagen and elastin production powerhouse of genuine Camellia Japonica Oil.

Once you have procured authentic Tsubaki, here is how to use it on skin and hair:

 

How to Use Camellia Japonica Oil on the Hair

A wood comb helps distribute the oil without snagging hair

A wood comb helps distribute the Tsubaki oil without snagging hair

Tsubaki can be applied to wet or dry hair to serve as a conditioning treatment or styling agent. It is traditionally distributed through the hair with a Tsuge wooden comb. As seen in the photo, there are no sharp edges that can snag or damage the hair. The Tsubaki oil also conditions the wood, giving it a beautiful luster and depth to the grain.

Camellia Japonica Oil Leave-In Hair Treatment

For leave-in hair treatments, apply the oil to wet hair after washing. Allow hair to dry wrapped in a towel or air dry as much as possible. Comb after drying to distribute the oil.

Tsubaki Camellia for Hair Shine and Finishing

Tsubaki Camellia can be used on dry hair as a finishing treatment. It creates a lovely high sheen.

Our best tip for finishing hair with Tsubaki is to start with the least amount of oil you can dispense from the bottle.

Dispense just a few drops, even for long hair. Always warm Japanese Camellia Japonica oil between the palms. Spread on dry hair using the palm of the hands. Comb through with a Tsuge wooden comb if possible. Concentrate on the dry ends of the hair, and the comb will transfer the oils to the rest of the hair to evenly distribute.

Comb it through, and only add more Tsubaki as needed. Very little Camellia Japonica oil goes a long way.  A dropper full is way too much. Practice plenty and count how many drops you dispense to hone your ideal amount for the next use.

Tsubaki creates a lovely healthy sheen to the hair while providing conditioning benefits.

How to Use Camellia Japonica on the Skin

Care of the skin was a ritual with this ancient beauty secret: none of the rubbing, scrubbing, or squeezing we tend to subject our skin to today. The skin was treated like an inherited gift that required the investment of time and effort to care for the skin, especially on face, throat, décolletage and hands.

Camellia japonica is a highly moisturizing and anti-aging skincare oil

Camellia japonica oil is a highly moisturizing and anti-aging skincare oil

Camellia oil absorbs very quickly. It permeates deep into lower layers of skin, promoting cell growth, and giving skin support and flexibility.

 

HOW TO APPLY CAMELLIA JAPONICA OIL TO SKIN

  1. Dispense a few drops of oil, rub your palms together.
  2. PAT the oil over your face and neck, don’t rub!
  3. Spread the oil in small circular motions in a gentle massage until it is absorbed.

It can be applied directly to a pimple, wrinkles, and crow’s feet.  Camellia Japonica Oil can be used to treat eczema and dry patches.

 

Rice Bran Oil and Tsubaki

These oils are both wonderful for hair and skin but they work better when not mixed together.  Apply Tsubaki first and allow it ample time to absorb. Follow with Rice Bran Oil if desired.

Camellia Japonica Fast Facts

Camellia Japonica

Camellia Japonica Oil is extracted from the seeds of this lovely bloom. Camellia Japonica means shiny green leaf, denoting its’ foliage.

Tsubaki is:

  • the authentic form of oil traditionally used as a beauty secret of Geishas.
  • suitable for hair and skin
  • anti-oxidant
  • moisturizing
  • rich in skin-hydrating fatty acid Omega 9
  • restores bounce and elasticity to the skin
  • contains polyphenols, Vitamins A, D, C, and E
  • non-comedogenic
  • promotes collagen and elastin production
  • non-greasy
  • fast-absorbing

 

References

  1. Jung, E. et al. Effect of Camellia japonica oil on human type I procollagen production and skin barrier function. Journal of ethnopharmacology 112.1, 127-131 (2007)
  2. Food and Chemical Toxicology, January 2000, issue 1, pages 79-96

Ingredient Overview: Mandelic Acid

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Acne is the most common skin condition in the US. Retinol is often used as an acne remedy. But peeling acids are also promising acne and acne scar treatments.  Mandelic Acid is an ingredient worthy of your attention. It gets the results of a robust acid but with little to no skin irritation.

Got acne? Meet Mandelic Acid.

 

WHAT IS MANDELIC ACID?

Mandelic Acid is a natural acne fighter and discoloration fixer.

Mandelic acid is a natural ingredient that comes from bitter almonds

Mandelic acid is a natural ingredient extracted from bitter almonds

  • Mandelic acid is a very gentle AHA (Alpha Hydroxy Acid).
  • Mandelic acid penetrates the skin slowly, making it suitable for even sensitive skin.
  • While it is an “acid” it is very gentle and rarely causes skin irritation.
  • Mandelic acid is natural, clean, green, and skin-friendly.
  • Mandelic acid is useful in organic skin care product formulations.

HOW MANDELIC ACID WORKS: ACNE TO ANTI-AGING

Mandelic acid accelerates cell turnover by dissolving the tiny bonds that hold skin cells together. This microexfoliation accomplishes several skincare objectives.

ACNE

Mandelic acid is useful in acne treatment. Mandelic acid removes bacteria-trapping dead skin, which contributes to acne formation. Dead skin also dulls the complexion and makes fine lines look worse. Removing dead skin cells brightens skin.

Mandelic acid is anti-bacterial, anti-fungal, and anti-inflammatory. If you have adult acne, Mandelic acid is ideal to treat both acne and signs of skin aging. [1]

ANTI-AGING

Mandelic acid an appealing ingredient within anti-aging products. Mandelic acid is helpful for smoothing mesh-like pattern wrinkles. Mandelic acid promotes collagen production. More collagen increases skin’s elasticity and youthful appearance. Collagen counteracts sun damage by smoothing and refining the skin surface. Sun damage is the largest cause of visible signs of aging.

Mandelic acid also reduces hyperpigmentation. It lightens acne scars, sun damage, and age spots.

 

MANDELIC ACID VS GLYCOLIC ACID

Similarities
  • Both acids are highly effective at causing rapid cell turnover.
  • Both reveal younger, smoother, brighter skin.
  • Both acids dissolve the “glue” holding dead skin cells.
  • Both remove dead skin cells without forceful scrubbing.
  • Both Mandelic Acid and Glycolic Acid are ideal for skin unable to tolerate harsh exfoliants.
Differences

A difference between the acids is that Mandelic acid has a larger molecular structure than glycolic acid. Smaller molecular structures penetrate the skin faster and deeper. [2] The larger molecular structure of Mandelic Acid gets the job done, albeit a tad slower.

If the skin can tolerate glycolic, that’s great. But if your skin gets irritated by Glycolic acid, Mandelic acid is an ideal option. Mandelic is kinder to the skin. There is little to no irritation and redness with regular Mandelic Acid use. [3]

Mandelic acid definition on Stylechicks
MANDELIC ACID TIPS FOR BEST USE

  • Skin using AHAs, including Mandelic Acid, is more sensitive to light. Always wear sunscreen
  • To avoid irritation, choose products with 10% or less Mandelic Acid concentrations

HYPERPIGMENTATION

Some hyperpigmentation fading ingredients work best on pink undertone skin. Mandelic Acid works on the hyperpigmentation of all skin tone types.

Mandelic Acid inhibits melanin production in existing scars, age spots, and acne marks. [4]  This reduces hyperpigmentation of all types on all skin tones.

 

Mandelic Acid A Holy Grail Ingredient

Mandelic Acid earns our “Holy Grail Ingredient” rating. It reduces sun damage, acne, and hyperpigmentation. It gently exfoliates and improves skin texture. It works on all skin tones and textures, including mature and sensitive skin. It is natural and suitable for organic product formulations.

Mandelic Acid is a Style Chicks skincare superstar!

Mandelic Acid is a great addition to a natural ingredient, organic skin care plan

Mandelic Acid is a natural ingredient that comes from bitter Almonds

REFERENCES

  1. Debowska, Renata & Kaszuba, Aleksandra & Michalak, Iwona & Dzwiga‚owska, Agata & Cie›ci„ska, Czanita & Jakimiuk, El bieta & Zielia„ska, Joanna & Kaszuba, Andrzej. (2015). Evaluation of the efficacy and tolerability of mandelic acid-containing cosmetic formulations for acne skin care. Dermatology Review. 4. 316-321. 10.5114/dr.2015.53419.
  2. Garg VK, Sinha S, Sarkar R. Glycolic acid peels versus salicylic-mandelic acid peels in active acne vulgaris and post-acne scarring and hyperpigmentation: A comparative study. Dermatol Surg 2009;35:59-65.
  3. Taylor MB. Summary of mandelic acid for the improvement of skin conditions. Cosmet Dermatol 1999;12:26-8
  4. Kessler E, Flanagan K, Chia C, Rogers C, Glaser DA. Comparison of alpha- and beta-hydroxy acid chemical peels in the treatment of mild to moderately severe facial acne vulgaris. Dermatol Surg 2008;34:45-50.

Science of Skincare: The GroundBreaking Collagen & Skin Elasticity Study For Ninja Level Anti-Aging

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Amongst the countless skincare products and procedures out there, what REALLY restores collagen? A recent study revealed facts that may alter what products you use in the fight against dull, aging skin.

The Collagen Conundrum

There are many collagen types in our body. Each collagen type has a function. Effective anti-aging skincare is not just restoring some form of collagen on areas of visible aging. It requires producing the right kind of collagen in the right place. This gives skin resilience and elasticity. Tricky, right?

We knew the deeper the skin can be stimulated to produce new collagen, the less facial sagging there will be.  That’s still true, but now there is more intel.

The Super Science-y Skin Study

A groundbreaking skin study revealed the composition of live young and aging skin.  It looked at the baby collagen in the skin. It noted the changes in elasticity with age in the twenties, thirties, and forties.

Special technology imaged the internal elasticity of the skin. It noted the concentration of the individual collagen fibers. They located which ones made skin elastic, taut and youthful. The location and impact of these concentrated collagen clusters were new information.

“The team also studied how the variations in skin elasticity in the papillary dermis would change the look of the skin and discovered that the skin surface of females without any signs of variations in elasticity was more likely to be smooth, whereas that of females with decreased elasticity looked slightly rough” [1]

The Result

The result? Now we know exactly WHERE we need to restore collagen. And we know which type of collagen rejuvenates skin and keeps it “springy”

“The team has found out that type III collagen is abundant in the areas with healthy skin elasticity in the uppermost layer of the dermis, but it decreases in the parts where the skin elasticity has deteriorated. This suggests that the decrease in type III collagen triggers the decrease in skin elasticity” [2]

In sum: what makes skin healthy, elastic and vibrant is collagen III within the dermal cells of the papillary dermis skin layer.

And the study identified the exact ingredient to accomplish the task. It is an ingredient that appears in skincare brands like Shiseido and Tatcha. It is also a natural ingredient that can be organically farmed. It’s Watercress. Yep, Watercress.

Watercress helps makes Type Collagen III in dermal cells

Watercress helps makes Type Collagen III in dermal cells

what to do About It

Henceforth, beauty buddies, we tackle anti-aging with the precision of a vapid ninja.

We‘re featuring select products using Watercress to best advantage to precisely target Collagen III production in the proper dermal cells.

And there are some great skin products in this lineup, including an all-natural Beauty Superfood oil with a Watercress base.

 

References

  1. Shiseido Succeeds in Visualization of Internal Skin Elasticity – Decrease of Type III Collagen Involved in Age-Dependent Degradation in Skin Elasticity. Shiseido, Shiseido, Apr. 2018, corp.shiseido.com/en/newsimg/2423_c3b40_en.pdf.
  2. Ibid

 

Skincare with Copper: Beauty Buzzword or Beneficial Must-Have?

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Copper in Skincare:
Does it Work?

Copper is one of the recent beauty buzzwords increasingly appearing within skincare. Skin care products with copper are generally on the pricer end of the spectrum. It all sounds promising, but what does research say about copper in skincare?

Copper is available in some foods, supplement form and topically within skin creams and serums.

How Copper Benefits Skin and Hair

Copper peptides promote collagen, elastin and hyaluronic acid production within the skin. All three are vital for skin firmness, texture, radiance, and appearance. But all three of these components decrease with age. Elastin is especially difficult to replace. Few skin products build Elastin like copper. Elastin is a necessary part of younger, resilient skin with less sagging. Elastin gives skin its youthful springy and bouncy quality. Elastin is crucial to achieve young-looking skin because it reduces sagging and wrinkles.

Copper peptides also remove damaged collagen. [1]

Copper is useful for hair growth. Copper is used in both hair supplements and topical scalp applications. Copper increases the size of shrunken hair follicles. It stops hair thinning and often reduces premature graying.

Why copper products are expensive

The copper extraction process is costly and produces little skincare-quality copper. A product requires a certain amount of copper to make a meaningful difference. It won’t be the first listing of the ingredient list, but it can’t be effective if it is the last ingredient of a long list.

For best results, Copper should be paired with supporting ingredients. These include Peptides, Vitamin C, hyaluronic acid, and retinoids. [2]

Recommended Products With Copper

Some products featuring copper which we find effective include:

Osmotics Cosmeceuticals Blue Copper 5 line features copper in both their skin care and hair care range. We love the attention Osmotics gives to copper-supporting ingredients like Vitamin C and other key ingredients to get the most bang for your beauty buck.

When it comes to proper copper delivery for beauty benefits, Osmotics Cosmeceuticals is the real deal.

Osmotics Firming Eye Complex contains Blue Copper 5, a potent copper peptide to firm eye skin

Osmotics Firming Eye Complex contains Blue Copper 5, a potent copper peptide to firm eye skin

Farmaesthetics Watercress Eye Gel contains Watercress. Watercress is an antioxidant containing Copper. [3] Watercress Eye Gel is an exceptionally gentle yet highly effective eye serum with quality, natural ingredients.

Watercress Eye Gel contains arnica and caffeine

Watercress Eye Gel contains Watercress with copper

Naturally Copper-rich Ingredients

Konjac Root contains copper amongst its’ many nutrients, as well as Vitamin C. Since copper works so well with C, Konjac Root is a great active ingredient in skincare. Meanwhile, it holds water in skin.

One Konjac Root product we love is Mad Hippie Vitamin C Serum, it contains all the actives that work well with copper.

Mad Hippie Vitamin C Serum contains copper rich Konjac Root.

Mad Hippie Vitamin C Serum contains copper rich Konjac Root.

Moringa Oil contains copper. Lightweight and non-comedogenic, it is suitable for use on both hair and skin.

SuperNatural Body Glo Body Oil with Bergamot contains copper-rich Moringa Oil along with several other amazing oils to nourish and soften skin.

How to Fix Dry Skin Organically: SuperNatural Body Glo Body Oil with Bergamot

Mango

Mango Seed Extract is rich in copper

Mango Seed Extract is high in copper. It is used in skincare and some natural cosmetics.

One we love is Caley Cosmetics Color Wave Natural lipstick. Copper keeps lips smooth and plump.

Celebrate National Lipstick Day with Caley Cosmetics Color Wave Natural Lipstick

 

QUESTIONS? COMMENTS?

Know a good skin or hair care product that contains copper? Tell us!

Have any questions or comments about copper in skincare? The Style Chicks are here to answer them.

Leave a comment or email us at [email protected]

References

  1. Pickart L, Vasquez-Soltero JM, Margolina A. GHK Peptide as a Natural Modulator of Multiple Cellular Pathways in Skin Regeneration. Biomed Res Int. 2015;2015:648108. doi:10.1155/2015/648108
  2. A.A, Abdulghani & A, Sherr & S, Shirin & G, Solodkina & Morales Tapia, E & B, Wolf & A.B, Gottlieb. (1998). Effects of topical creams containing vitamin C, a copper-binding peptide cream and melatonin compared with tretinoin on the ultrastructure of normal skin – A pilot clinical, histologic, and ultrastructural study. Disease Management and Clinical Outcomes. 1. 136-141. 10.1016/S1088-3371(98)00011-4.
  3. Applied Biochemistry and Microbiology, July 2001, pages 392-399

Science of Beauty: Salicylic Acid the Collagen-Building Acne Treating BHA

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Salicylic Acid is effective for teenage , cystic, and adult acne. It is preferred for mature skin because it does not excessively dry skin that’s already showing signs of aging. BONUS: Salicylic builds collagen.

INGREDIENT PROFILE: Salicylic Acid

Salicylic Acid is a bHA (beta hydroxy acid). BHAs work from the bottom of a pore up. Alpha Hydroxy Acid (AHAs) work from the top layer of the skin down.

Pairing a bHA such as Salicylic Acid with an aHA like Mandelic Acid is clinically proven to be highly successful in acne treatment. (1) Salicylic Acid is also proven effective as a chemical peel agent for various skin issues. (2)

What SALICYLIC ACID does

Salicylic Acid is a natural bHA that comes from White Willow Bark.

Salicylic Acid is a natural bHA from White Willow Bark.

Salicylic Acid purges clogged pores without excess drying the skin surface. Salicylic Acid does not cause the dryness or Benzoyl Peroxide or Retinol, but overtreatment can lead to irritation.

Salicylic Acid also helps build collagen to heal acne scars and improve skincare texture. Collagen production is a nice perk of acne treatment.

Salicylic acid works better when paired with another peeling agent. A combination of salicylic and mandelic acids was shown to be especially effective on moderate acne. (3).

Favorite Products Using Salicylic Acid

  • Peter Thomas Roth Acne Clear Invisible Dots are tiny clear bandaid like dots embedded with Salicylic acid
  • Neutralyze Exfoliating Pads combine Salicylic with Mandelic and Nitric Oxide to clean pores fast.
  • Clinique Acne Solutions Clinical Clearing Gel is highly effective on adult cystic acne when used as a pre-emptive or spot treatment.
  • The Exposed Skincare line uses salicylic in two ways within their product range.  Great for adult cystic acne.
  • The Ordinary Salicylic Acid 2% Solution is a gentle but effective pre-emptive acne treatment

QUESTIONS?
Comments?

Clinique Acne Solutions Clinical Clearing Gel has Salicylic Acid

Clinique Acne Solutions Clinical Clearing Gel contains Salicylic Acid

Know a salicylic acid product that should be on this list? Tell us!

Have any questions about Salicylic Acid?

The Style Chicks are here to answer them.

Leave a comment or email us

 

 

References

  1. Garg VK, Sinha S, Sarkar R. Glycolic acid peels versus salicylic-mandelic acid peels in active acne vulgaris and post-acne scarring and hyperpigmentation: A comparative study. Dermatol Surg 2009;35:59-65.
  2. Kessler E, Flanagan K, Chia C, Rogers C, Glaser DA. Comparison of alpha- and beta-hydroxy acid chemical peels in the treatment of mild to moderately severe facial acne vulgaris. Dermatol Surg 2008;34:45-50.
  3. Bari AU, Tolerance and safety of superficial chemical peeling with salicylic acid in various facial dermatoses. Indian J Dermatol Venereol Leprol. 2005 Mar-Apr;71(2):87-90.

 

 

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