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Style Chicks

Expert Beauty Reviews | Skincare Ingredient Guides

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Science of Skincare: The GroundBreaking Collagen & Skin Elasticity Study For Ninja Level Anti-Aging

February 26, 2020 · 2 Comments

Amongst the countless skincare products and procedures out there, what REALLY restores collagen? A recent study revealed facts that may alter what products you use in the fight against dull, aging skin.

The Collagen Conundrum

There are many collagen types in our body. Each collagen type has a function. Effective anti-aging skincare is not just restoring some form of collagen on areas of visible aging. It requires producing the right kind of collagen in the right place. This gives skin resilience and elasticity. Tricky, right?

We knew the deeper the skin can be stimulated to produce new collagen, the less facial sagging there will be.  That’s still true, but now there is more intel.

The Super Science-y Skin Study

A groundbreaking skin study revealed the composition of live young and aging skin.  It looked at the baby collagen in the skin. It noted the changes in elasticity with age in the twenties, thirties, and forties.

Special technology imaged the internal elasticity of the skin. It noted the concentration of the individual collagen fibers. They located which ones made skin elastic, taut and youthful. The location and impact of these concentrated collagen clusters were new information.

“The team also studied how the variations in skin elasticity in the papillary dermis would change the look of the skin and discovered that the skin surface of females without any signs of variations in elasticity was more likely to be smooth, whereas that of females with decreased elasticity looked slightly rough” [1]

The Result

The result? Now we know exactly WHERE we need to restore collagen. And we know which type of collagen rejuvenates skin and keeps it “springy”

“The team has found out that type III collagen is abundant in the areas with healthy skin elasticity in the uppermost layer of the dermis, but it decreases in the parts where the skin elasticity has deteriorated. This suggests that the decrease in type III collagen triggers the decrease in skin elasticity” [2]

In sum: what makes skin healthy, elastic and vibrant is collagen III within the dermal cells of the papillary dermis skin layer.

And the study identified the exact ingredient to accomplish the task. It is an ingredient that appears in skincare brands like Shiseido and Tatcha. It is also a natural ingredient that can be organically farmed. It’s Watercress. Yep, Watercress.

Watercress helps makes Type Collagen III in dermal cells

Watercress helps makes Type Collagen III in dermal cells

what to do About It

Henceforth, beauty buddies, we tackle anti-aging with the precision of a vapid ninja.

We‘re featuring select products using Watercress to best advantage to precisely target Collagen III production in the proper dermal cells.

And there are some great skin products in this lineup, including an all-natural Beauty Superfood oil with a Watercress base.

 


References

  1. Shiseido Succeeds in Visualization of Internal Skin Elasticity – Decrease of Type III Collagen Involved in Age-Dependent Degradation in Skin Elasticity. Shiseido, Shiseido, Apr. 2018, corp.shiseido.com/en/newsimg/2423_c3b40_en.pdf.
  2. Ibid

 

Posted by Style Chicks / Filed In: Anti-Aging, Beauty, Green Beauty, Ingredient Guides, Science of Beauty, Science of Skincare, Skincare
Tagged: Baby Collagen, Collagen III, Internal Skin Elasticity, Shiseido, Shiseido Research, Watercress, Watercress for skin

What is the Magic Of The Kat Burki Micro Firming Wand

January 14, 2020 · 8 Comments

Want to make the most of those precious serums, concentrates, and eye creams? Kat Burki Micro Firming Wand to the rescue. It uses ionic energy via iontophoresis and micro-vibration to enhance the effect of active ingredients while firming the skin. This  ensures the absorption of every last drop of a skincare product so nothing goes to waste.
The perfect pairing: Kat Burki Eye Concentrate with Kat Burki Micro Wand

The perfect pairing: Kat Burki Nutrient-C Eye Cream with Kat Burki Micro Firming Wand

We recently featured the Kat Burki Nutrient-C Eye Cream, a stable Vitamin C with a slew of natural, skin-enhancing ingredients. The Kat Burki Micro Firming Wand enables the absorption of every precious drop.

WHAT IS the Kat Burki Micro Firming Wand

A lightweight, handheld cordless tool that gently massages in your favorite creams and serums to increase absorption. It uses ionic energy via iontophoresis and micro-vibration to enhance the effect of active ingredients.

WHAT Does the Kat Burki Micro Firming Wand Do?

This tool is helpful because the delicate eye area is tricky. It is easy to accidentally stretch or rub eye skin when applying topicals.

Instead of rubbing your favorite serum into the delicate eye area, we love the idea of using this micro FIRMING WAND.

What is the Magic Of The Kat Burki Micro Firming Wand?

This tool employs two known principles of transdermal delivery: Iontophoresis and micro-vibration.

Iontophoresis

This wand employs a known means of delivering a treating active (typically a medicinal drug) into the outermost layer of the skin by using a voltage gradient on the skin. The voltage increases the permeability of the skin. This practice is called Iontophoresis.

Iontophoresis uses an electric current to deliver a medicine or other chemical through the skin. It is sometimes called “an injection without the needle”. Iontophoresis is used in therapy, medicine, dentistry, lab sciences, and physiology.

In this case, the voltage gradient is low and is not felt as anything other than a light vibration. There is no “zapping” feeling and it stops when there is no more product to absorb. There is no “overdoing” it or irritating the skin with this wand.

Micro-vibration

Micro-vibration applies just the right amount of pressure to aid absorption without harming the skin. It is a subtle oscillation, not the full-on Clarisonic like oscillating power, which would be too intense for delicate areas like eyes, browbone. The wand is powerful enough to aid absorption but gentle enough for the eye area. It only vibrates when their is product moisture and it is pressed correctly against your skin. Once the product absorbs, it automatically shuts off.

Micro-vibration is firming because it enhances micro-circulation.

ABOUT THE KAT BURKI BRAND

The brand delivers only cold-processed, nutrient-dense formulations. Every Kat Burki product is packed with intelligently created Super Nutrient Complexes for maximum potency every element has a purpose. Every formula is free from chemicals, parabens, synthetic fragrances, gluten and are cruelty-free. There are no fillers. Because they are so nutrient-rich, it makes perfect sense that they would develop a tool to aid absorption.

Kat Burki wand signature packaging

Kat Burki wand signature packaging

WHERE TO BUY IT

Find the Kat Burki Micro Firming Wand at Kat Burki

Use the firming wand with your favorite eye creams and serums

Use the firming wand with your favorite eye creams and serums


QUESTIONS?
COMMENTS?

Have any comments or questions about Kat Burki Micro Firming Wand? The Style Chicks are here to answer them.

Leave a comment or email us at questions@stylechicks.com


REFERENCES

  1. Pikal, Michael J. (2001). “The role of electroosmotic flow in transdermal iontophoresis”. Advanced Drug Delivery Reviews. 46 (1–3): 281–305. doi:10.1016/S0169-409X(00)00138-1

ABOUT THIS POST

Kat Burki Micro Firming Wand was submitted to Style Chicks for consideration purposes. All opinions and experiences are 100% our own.

Posted by Style Chicks / Filed In: Product Review, Science of Skincare, Skin Tools & Devices
Tagged: Beauty Devices, Beauty Gadgets, Kat Burki, Kat Burki Firming Wand

Salicylic Acid What it is + How to Best Use it

July 16, 2019 · 6 Comments

INGREDIENT GUIDE: Salicylic Acid is a bHA that treats adult acne with extra skin benefits


Salicylic Acid is effective for teenage, cystic, and adult acne.

It is preferred for mature skin because it does not excessively dry skin that’s already showing signs of aging.

What is Salicylic Acid in skincare?

It is a bHA (beta hydroxy acid). It is a natural ingredient that comes from Willow Bark.

  • BHAs work from the bottom of a pore up.
  • Alpha Hydroxy Acid (AHAs) work from the top layer of the skin down.

It works by breaking down layers of thick skin.

What does Salicylic Acid Treat?

Salicylic Acid is also proven effective as a chemical peel agent for various skin issues. [2]

Some of those skin conditions include:

  • acne
  • psorasis
  • eczema
  • dandruff
  • seborrheic dermatitis of the skin and scalp
  • calluses
  • corns

What are SALICYLIC ACID skin benefits?

Salicylic Acid is a natural bHA that comes from White Willow Bark.

Salicylic Acid is a natural bHA from White Willow Bark.

Salicylic Acid has several skincare benefits:

  • It purges clogged pores without drying the skin surface.
  • It does not cause the dryness or Benzoyl Peroxide or Retinol.
  • Salicylic Acid also helps build collagen to heal acne scars and improve skincare texture. Collagen production is a nice perk of acne treatment!
  • It can be used daily
  • Even if you are not acne-prone, dead skin cells can dull a complexion. BHAs helps to prevent acne and promote a smoother, more even skin texture.
  • it evens skin tone and fades acne marks.

What Ingredients work well with Salicylic Acid?

Salicylic acid works better when combined with another peeling agent.

  • Using Salicylic Acid and an aHA like Mandelic Acid is proven to be highly successful in the treatment of moderate acne. [3]
  • Using it with glycolic acid is effective in treating scalp conditions such as dandruff
  • It should NOT be used with any scrub or Benzoyl Peroxide.
  • Do not use retinol at the same time.

What are the disadvantages of Salicylic Acid?

Like any active, over use can cause skin irritation.

Best use tip: if used during the day, it should always be paired with sunscreen.

It can be drying to the hair when overused in a shampoo unless that shampoo also contains hydrating ingredients.

When possible, use a hair conditioner from the ears down after a treatment shampoo.


Why use a Salicylic Acid shampoo? 

As a shampoo, it is an excellent ingredient to treat any dry or thickened skin patches on the scalp.

These patches can be caused by:

  • eczema
  • dandruff
  • dermatitis
  • psoriasis

How to Best Use a Salicylic Shampoo

It is generally used once or twice a week to maintain a flake-free scalp.

Your dermatologist may first recommend daily use to treat the problem. Then 1-2 times a week.

There are prescription strength shampoos but many over the counter shampoos can be very effective.

If yours isn’t working, another brand may work better for you.  Some come in higher extra strength concentrations of 3%. Generally, 2% can be effective.

BEST USE TIP: You can leave the shampoo on your scalp for several minutes before rinsing it off to maximize the benefits.

What are Salicylic Acid Benefits for Hair?

Even if you don’t have dandruff, it can gently exfoliates the scalp by:

  • loosening dead skin
  • dirt
  • product buildup
  • excess oil

Salicylic acid helps loosen the “glue” of dry or scaly scalp skin. It also tends to smell better than many medicinal shampoos used to treat these conditions.

BEST USE TIP: It is better to use a shampoo form verses a direct SA serum application. Direct application is too drying to the scalp.

Can Salicylic Acid Grow Hair?

No. It is not known to directly grow hair.

But a clean scalp is a healthy foundation to best grow hair.

Favorite Products Using Salicylic Acid

SKINCARE USES

  • Peter Thomas Roth Acne Clear Invisible Dots are tiny clear band-aid like dots with salicylic acid to spot treat acne.
  • Neutralyze Exfoliating Pads combine Salicylic with Mandelic and Nitric Oxide to clean pores fast.
  • Kat Burki Power Trio Radiance Oil: Combining just three oils, this treatment features Raspberry Oil which contains Salicylic Acid. It pairs nicely with the other restorative and hydrating oils to keep my skin in balance when I am not experiencing active breakouts.
  • Clinique Acne Solutions Clinical Clearing Gel is highly effective on adult cystic acne when used as a pre-emptive or spot treatment.
  • The Exposed Skincare line uses SA in two ways within their product range.  Great for adult cystic acne.
  • The Ordinary Salicylic Acid 2% Solution is a gentle but effective pre-emptive acne treatment

HAIRCARE USES

  • CeraVe Gentle Hydrating Shampoo is great for those with sensitive skin because it has ceramides to balance the dandruff treating ingredients.

  • Neutrogena T/Sal Scalp Build-Up Control Therapeutic Shampoo is great for those with sensitivities.

  • Nizoral Scalp Psoriasis Shampoo & Conditioner is a classic that is also viewed as a hair growth staple that contains conditioning vitamins E, C, and B5. It also leaves hair shiny.

How to Best Use Salicylic Acid SUMMARY

Beta Hydroxy Acids unclog pores, exfoliate the skin, and promote a more even skin tone.  Salicylic acid is one of the few ingredients capable of treating adult acne without being too drying on mature skin.

If you’re new to BHAs, start slowly and be sure use moisturizer and sunscreen to keep your skin healthy and hydrated.

About the Style Chicks Ingredient Guides

The Ingredient Guides

Was this guide helpful? Then you may enjoy our other ingredient guides such as:

  • How to Best Use Black Cumin Seed Oil
  • How to Best Use Watercress
  • Rosehip Seed Oil
  • How to Use Aloe Vera

Find more skin-friendly ingredients in the Style Chicks Defining Beauty Glossary. The Defining Beauty Glossary contains many helpful ingredients for hair and skin care.



QUESTIONS or Comments?

Clinique Acne Solutions Clinical Clearing Gel has Salicylic Acid

Clinique Acne Solutions Clinical Clearing Gel contains Salicylic Acid

Know a product that should be on this list? Tell us!

Have any questions about Salicylic Acid?

The Style Chicks are here to answer them.

Leave a comment or email us



References

  1. Kessler E, Flanagan K, Chia C, Rogers C, Glaser DA. Comparison of alpha- and beta-hydroxy acid chemical peels in the treatment of mild to moderately severe facial acne vulgaris. Dermatol Surg 2008;34:45-50.
  2. Bari AU, Tolerance and safety of superficial chemical peeling with salicylic acid in various facial dermatoses. Indian J Dermatol Venereol Leprol. 2005 Mar-Apr;71(2):87-90.
  3. Garg VK, Sinha S, Sarkar R. Glycolic acid peels versus salicylic-mandelic acid peels in active acne vulgaris and post-acne scarring and hyperpigmentation: A comparative study. Dermatol Surg 2009;35:59-65.

Posted by Style Chicks / Filed In: Ingredient Guides, Science of Skincare
Tagged: Acne, Adult Acne, Salicylic Acid

Science of Beauty: Why Use Mandelic Acid for Acne to Anti-Aging

July 1, 2019 · 5 Comments

Acne is the most common skin condition in the United States.
No acne treatment overview would be complete without Mandelic Acid.


Retinol is still the gold standard for acne. But peeling acids are more common in acne and acne scar treatment. And Mandelic Acid is an ingredient worthy of your attention. It gets the results of a robust acid but with little to no skin irritation.

WHAT IS MANDELIC ACID?

Mandelic acid is a natural ingredient that comes from bitter almonds

Mandelic acid is a natural ingredient that is extracted from bitter almonds

Mandelic acid is a very gentle AHA (Alpha Hydroxy Acid).

Mandelic acid penetrates the skin slowly, making it suitable for even sensitive skin. While it is an “acid” it is very gentle and rarely causes skin irritation.

Mandelic acid is natural, clean, green, and skin-friendly.

It is useful in organic skin care product formulations.

HOW MANDELIC ACID WORKS: ACNE TO ANTI-AGING

Mandelic acid accelerates cell turnover by dissolving the tiny bonds that hold skin cells together. This microexfoliation accomplishes several skincare objectives.

ACNE

Mandelic acid is useful in acne treatment. Mandelic acid removes bacteria-trapping dead skin, which contributes to acne formation. Dead skin also dulls the complexion and makes fine lines look worse. Removing dead skin cells brightens skin. It is anti-bacterial, anti-fungal, and anti-inflammatory. If you have adult acne, Mandelic acid is ideal to treat both acne and signs of skin aging. (1)

ANTI-AGING

Mandelic acid an appealing ingredient within anti-aging products. Mandelic acid is helpful for smoothing mesh-like pattern wrinkles. Mandelic acid promotes collagen production. More collagen increases skin’s elasticity and youthful appearance. Collagen counteracts sun damage by smoothing and refining the skin surface. Sun damage is the largest cause of visible signs of aging.

Mandelic acid reduces hyperpigmentation. It lightens acne scars, sun damage, and age spots.

MANDELIC ACID VS GLYCOLIC ACID

Both acids are highly effective at causing rapid cell turnover. Both reveal younger, smoother, brighter skin. Both acids dissolve the “glue” holding dead skin cells. Both remove dead skin cells without forceful scrubbing. Both Mandelic Acid and Glycolic Acid are ideal for skin unable to tolerate harsh exfoliants.

A difference between the acids is that Mandelic acid has a larger molecular structure than glycolic acid. Smaller molecular structures penetrate the skin faster and deeper.  (2) If the skin can tolerate glycolic, that’s great. But if the skin gets irritated by Glycolic acid, Mandelic acid is an ideal option. The larger molecular structure of Mandelic Acid gets the job done, albeit a tad slower. Mandelic is kinder to the skin. There is little to no irritation and redness with regular Mandelic Acid use. (3)


MANDELIC ACID TIPS FOR BEST USE

  • Skin using AHAs, including Mandelic Acid, is more sensitive to light. Always wear sunscreen
  • To avoid irritation, choose products with 10% or less Mandelic Acid concentrations

HYPERPIGMENTATION

Some hyperpigmentation fading ingredients work best on pink undertone skin. Mandelic Acid works on the hyperpigmentation of all skin tone types. Mandelic Acid inhibits melanin production in existing scars, age spots, and acne marks. (4) This reduces hyperpigmentation of all types on all skin tones.

Mandelic Acid: A Holy Grail Ingredient

Mandelic Acid earns our “Holy Grail Ingredient” rating. It reduces sun damage, acne, and hyperpigmentation. It gently exfoliates and improves skin texture. It works on all skin tones and textures, including mature and sensitive skin. It is natural and suitable for organic product formulations. A Style Chicks skincare superstar!

 



REFERENCES

  1. Debowska, Renata & Kaszuba, Aleksandra & Michalak, Iwona & Dzwiga‚owska, Agata & CieÅ›ciÅ„ska, Czanita & Jakimiuk, Elżbieta & ZieliÅ„ska, Joanna & Kaszuba, Andrzej. (2015). Evaluation of the efficacy and tolerability of mandelic acid-containing cosmetic formulations for acne skin care. Dermatology Review. 4. 316-321. 10.5114/dr.2015.53419.
  2. Garg VK, Sinha S, Sarkar R. Glycolic acid peels versus salicylic-mandelic acid peels in active acne vulgaris and post-acne scarring and hyperpigmentation: A comparative study. Dermatol Surg 2009;35:59-65.
  3. Taylor MB. Summary of mandelic acid for the improvement of skin conditions. Cosmet Dermatol 1999;12:26-8
  4. Kessler E, Flanagan K, Chia C, Rogers C, Glaser DA. Comparison of alpha- and beta-hydroxy acid chemical peels in the treatment of mild to moderately severe facial acne vulgaris. Dermatol Surg 2008;34:45-50.

Posted by Style Chicks / Filed In: Green Beauty, Ingredient Glossary, Science of Beauty, Science of Skincare, Skincare
Tagged: Acne Scars, Holy Grail Skincare, How to Use Mandelic Acid for Acne, How to Use Mandelic Acid for Anti-aging, Mandelic Acid, Skincare Anti-Aging

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